Wolf Ecology

Dick Thiel-Field Study

The first law of ecology is that everything is related to everything else.-Barry Commoner

If anything was learned at a recent TWIN wolf ecology workshop, it was that-everything is connected-Including... the role of the wolf in our environment. TWIN (Timber Wolf Information Network) is based in Central Wisconsin, and focuses on science-based educational outreach, conveyed through wolf ecology workshops presented each winter. The session I attended was held at the Beaver Creek Nature Preserve near Fall Creek.

The workshop was a great learning experience for anyone interested in this species. TWIN instructors Scott and Dick Thiel and Beverly Paulan did an excellent job in presenting information in a very scientific and factual way. Attendees varied in background from very pro-wolf to those of us who are trackers and want to delve deeper into what this creature is about and its place in our natural world.

In presenting the historical view, Wisconsin was a much different place and supported many more species in the past. Woodland caribou (extirpated by 1910), American Bison (1832), Elk (1868), Cougar, Lynx and Wolverine, all were common here. Of course bear, wolves and deer also inhabited the state, which was composed of oak savannah (prairie) in the south-west half and boreal forest and hardwoods in the north.

To understand the wolf now, we have to comprehend its past. By 1900, Wisconsin was in the midst of ecological devastation. Europeans moving into the Upper Midwest wiped out the white pine at first followed by the remaining timber. Expanding towns and cities along with farming changed forever the landscape of the state. Market hunting eliminated entire species and any animal deemed as direct completion to man were persecuted. Bounties were placed on most predators including the Grey Wolf, which was successfully erased as a species here by the 1950s. Ecologically, it was not understood at the time what role large predators have in maintaining a healthy ecosystem. Frontier mythology and tall tales also played into this extirpation.

In trying to fathom the wolf in context of modern culture, TWIN member Scott Thiel also included an extensive natural history component in its workshop. Although I'm familiar with a basic knowledge of large carnivores, including wolves, the presentation dove deeply into where they evolved from, their genetic make up, and how climate changes forced animals to develop differently depending on where they lived and migrated. A robust species, the Dire wolf, once roamed much of North America and became extinct around 10,000 ago. Other canis family members still remain, though some are truly threatened or endangered. Coyotes are very common and thriving, while the Grey Wolf (Timber Wolf) has gained foot holds were humans have allowed it to do so. Lycaon (Eastern Wolf) survives only in Algonquin Provincial park in Canada, while very small numbers of Red and Mexican Wolf attempt a comeback in North Carolina and Arizona respectively. There seems little optimism either of those species will successfully recover.

Biologically, the wolf is designed to be effect at taking down ungulates (hoofed animals) with whitetail deer being the primary prey in Wisconsin-though beaver can also comprise a significant food source. Success of the species relies heavily of it's unique social configuration, unique among all large predators. Jodi Picoult perhaps describes it best: “I woke up one morning thinking about wolves and realized that wolf packs function as families. Everyone has a role, and if you act within the parameters of your role, the whole pack succeeds, and when that falls apart, so does the pack.”

The family structure, or pack, typically is made up of 2 or more animals, with 3-4 being the average in Wisconsin. There is a strict hierarchy- the alpha pair, another related adult or 2 and any surviving pups the most common group. The average lifespan is 2.2 years old (if one includes pups) or 4-8 not factoring in the high mortality of young of the year. Starvation is the leading cause of death for pups who are born in May. In summer, young are moved to rendezvous sites and by fall they accompany the pack. Wolves in Wisconsin average a 25% mortality rate each year.

“The strength of the pack is the wolf and the strength of the wolf is the pack.” -Rudyard Kipling

Territories average about six by six miles in Wisconsin. A pack's home turf is based on the type of prey, its abundance and weather. Typically, range and pack size are much larger to the west and north where prey is larger. As with humans, pack territories are defended against outsiders-a “fence” of scent (scat and urination) delineates boundaries and wolves, with a hyper sense of smell, respect each packs home. Besides communicating with smell-howling can also define a territory and aids in communication between pack members.

Of all the information I learned, the accuracy of the Wisconsin monitoring program is most remarkable. Paulan, a DNR pilot, presented information on how the DNR conducts surveys to formulate rigorous population numbers. Despite barroom banter, there are not wolves behind ever tree. Wisconsin conducts the longest running and most detailed analysis in the country. Between monitoring radio collared animals and tracking surveys, an accurate assessment can be made of distribution, pack and territory size, birth and mortality rates and total numbers. Wisconsin is the only state to conduct annual surveys over the entire wolf range and do aerial monitoring across all management blocks. Wolves travel great distances daily, so tracks and other sign left behind can give the appearance of greater than actual numbers. Detailed scrutiny of survey results yields scientific figures aiding research and management of human wolf conflict.

Each wolf ecology class also includes field work. Several TWIN members spent the morning surveying the adjacent Eau Claire county forest for wolf and other carnivore sign. Luckily, a lightly traveled snow covered woods road provided the perfect teaching opportunity for the students. We caravanned to the remote location and within a short hike studied tracks of fox, coyote, fisher and wolf. The beauty of this location was many of the tracks were next to each other, so size and gait could easily be compared between species. A RLU (raised leg urination) also marked this stretch of road, indicating an alpha wolf had ventured here. Forest type and regeneration were also discussed and how land practices effect animals living there.

“The wolf made the deer what it is. The deer made the wolf what it is” For the Timber wolf in Wisconsin, the whitetail is the main prey. In presenting predator/prey associations, Dick Thiel examined closely that relationship and how it effects the ecosystem. Studies unequivocally show wolves prey mostly on the young and old- much different from (human) hunters who tend to kill the most prime animals. The end result is that the prey species can actually be healthier as a result by wolf predation. Contrary to most tailgate chatter, the wolf, at a density of .1/square mile (compared to coyotes at 1/sq.mi or bear at .5/sq.mi) are far down the list as a cause of deer mortality. Hunters and winters top the list by a huge margin. Recent scientific studies of deer mortality conducted in Wisconsin and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan support this fact. In earlier times, nature would keep the deer herd in check with predators, avoiding over browsing and changes to the ecosystem. Now, man has stepped in to dictate deer numbers (as a favored species) and carnivores like the wolf are secondary.

The wolf is neither man's competitor nor his enemy. He is a fellow creature with whom the earth must be shared. ... If the wolf is to survive, the wolf haters must be outnumbered. They must be outshouted, out financed, and out voted. Their narrow and biased attitude must be outweighed by an attitude based on an understanding of natural processes. (Dr. L. David Mech)

Of course wolf/human conflicts do occur acknowledged the TWIN presenters. Whereas “predation” is killing of a native prey, “depredations” are of a domestic animal, and they do happen. Proponents of the Wisconsin wolf hunt justified it because, among other reasons, agricultural damage (to livestock). Statistically in the state, only .17% of the farms experience loss. Interestingly, deer damage payments total $1.2 million in ag claims, bear at $262,000 and $151,000 for wolves, ( $56,000 of that paid to hound hunters). Wolves depredating on livestock (much like problem bears) are targeted though lethal and non lethal means and have been quite successful in reducing those losses. Depredation on hounds has not, and even though the DNR reports on every dog killed and publishes “caution areas” there are still claims being made and paid by the state-in some circles, a controversial policy. No other state makes (up to $2500) payments to hound hunters. 2/3rds of these losses occur during the bear (hound) training season in July and August when wolf packs move to rendezvous sites, which are diligently protected. Although the wolf hunt law provided for the very contentious use of dogs, past seasons never progressed into the mating and breeding seasons-a potential for more aggressive behavior.

Although Little Red Riding Hood in reality has a much more perverse meaning, tales like that of the big bad wolf along with the Three Little Pigs and folklore perpetuate an animosity not founded in reality. Prior to 1900, there were few attacks in North America and until 2005, no humans killed. (2005-a runner in Saskatchewan near a dump was killed, bear and wolf possible and not confirmed. In 2010 a female runner in Alaska, also near a dump and not taking precautions was killed) Other species, like our much more common Black Bear, (which does attack and kill people) seem to get a free pass and not generate the same felicitous fear the wolf does. I queried why that might be? Scott Thiel suggested maybe because wolves are similar to us and perhaps we see ourselves in wolves.

Farley Mowat (Never Cry Wolf) described it this way: “We have doomed the wolf not for what it is, but for what we deliberately and mistakenly perceive it to be –the mythologized epitome of a savage ruthless killer – which is, in reality, no more than a reflected image of ourself.” And author Gerald Hausman concurs with Thiels thought: “We humans fear the beast within the wolf because we do not understand the beast within ourselves.”

We learned there is a correlation between our two species. Both have been evolutionarily successful, both live in social groups made up of families and are characterized by hierarchies, cooperation and communication. We both have fixed territories and homes, pursue and consume flesh while hunting the same species. We have co-evolved with wolves.

At the time our hunter/gatherer ancestors, we lived in a boom or bust cycle of survival. We had large territories and the spiritual view of nature was positive. Later, during our agriculture based society, we had a stable food supply for the most part and a religious view of nature in the negative. The natural world was to be conquered and tamed. Market hunting exploited game and sport hunting developed to conserve just a selected species with the elimination of a suite of predators who were viewed as competition. Perhaps this backstory shapes our view of the wolf?

The TWIN workshop wrapped up with a close look at wolf management across the country and more specifically the state. 1974-75 marked the first wolves wandering back into north west Wisconsin from Minnesota. By 1977-78, 2 packs had formed in Douglas County, signaling a start in recovery to the state. That same year the species was listed as threatened in neighboring Minnesota, while endangered elsewhere. In 1999, Wisconsin's written wolf recovery plan had a goal of 350-500 in population in what was thought at the time to be suitable wolf range. They have proven to be able to adapt to habitat outside of the deep remote forest of far northern Wisconsin and populations have now reached 660 (in last winters count).

Federal protection yo-yo'd back and forth for a number of years before delisting in 2012. Although no mention of a wolf hunting season was contained in the original wolf recovery plan, a harvest bill was quickly written after de-listing. Dick Thiel recalled that January 29^th, 2012 was a Friday night ( date of the wolf de-listing), by Saturday a hunt bill was drafted and the following Wednesday there were public hearings. Quickly thereafter the bill was signed into law. Of concern with Wisconsin Act 169 (wolf hunt bill) was how quickly it was enacted. All indications are it was written and backed by a special interest group and passed long by legislators. Concerns raised were that the DNR had no negotiations with native tribes, to reduce the population to 350, having a season structure spanning one-third of the year-including breeding season and the unprecedented use of hounds. In one hastily passed bill, science plans were totally wiped out by the legislature.

After three years of sport hunting, the eastern grey wolf was again re-listed in December of 2014. How federal law protections of wolves and indeed the future of the Endangered Species Act are uncertain. Lawmakers, even at this time, are rushing to pass legislation to remove all protections permanently (as they have in Montana and Idaho). The controversy over this animal will undoubtedly continue. There are extreme views from stakeholders on both sides of the wolf issue and perhaps groups like TWIN, and the scientific education they provide, can narrow that divide and bring a more sound reasoning and understanding of the species.

Wolves are not our brothers; they are not our subordinates, either. They are another nation, caught up just like us in the complex web of time and life. (Henry Beston)

TWIN Track-A-Thon

Eastern Grey Wolf

Although I've been tracking animals for as long as I can remember, it's usually been as a side interest to whatever other outdoor excursion I'm on- hunting, cross country skiing, mountain biking or snowshoeing. Grooming ski trails late at night always offers great opportunities as well and sometimes the hours last a little longer if I'm distracted by minutes old fresh animal sign. If anything, those days now feel like the minor leagues-I knew tracks pretty well, but after completing tracking certification and becoming a Volunteer DNR tracker earlier this year, it's more like I graduated to the big show. Now, I need to be very precise, I need to verify, look for evidence and confirm what I'm seeing in the snow and keep detailed records....yeah, this is a new ball game.

This past weekend TWIN (Timber Wolf Education Network) held their annual “Track-A-Thon” in the central forest region of Wisconsin-the southern end of wolf territory in the state. Headquartering out of the Sandhill Wildlife Area near Babcock, TWIN members meet, were given assignments on tracking areas, discussed recent sign and headed out to spend a day surveying their blocks. TWIN focuses on science-based wolf education and provides outreach through wolf ecology workshops each winter. Most members are also involved with the Wisconsin DNR volunteer carnivore tracking program and results from the Track-A-Thon were forwarded to that effort.

The WDNR runs the most extensive tracking surveys in the country, starting in 1977 for fur bearing animals. Wolf tracking began formally in 1979 and the current volunteer program of conducting wolf and carnivore surveys started in 1995. The intention of the study, in addition to determining numbers and territories of wolves, is also to keep tabs on other medium to large carnivores and determine if rare species like Canada lynx, wolverine or cougar also exist in the state.

Bob Cat

Participants are asked to complete a track training course, attend a wolf ecology class sponsored by the DNR, Timber Wolf Alliance or TWIN, complete a mammal test and conduct a minimum of three surveys submitting their results per guidelines to the DNR.

Being new to the group, I was eager to meet and learn as much as possible during this day long event. Sandhill is about 30 miles east of my usual tracking area, so I decided to start my survey on some unexplored forest roads nearer that side of my block. I'd been tutored on using some high tech gear-an external GPS unit, which blue tooth connects to my ipad loaded with various off-line maps. The DNR tracking surveys follow specific protocol and one needs to carefully record the survey route and milage. I found the technology on the dash of the truck advantageous, and if needed, I could flip through different charts on the ipad, looking at everything from topo maps to satellite imagery. Track locations could be added with waypoints and details typed in on the fly. That said, there is also room for the old school methods. Hand written notes on every track observed were scribbled with pencil in a notebook and old fashioned folding wood rulers did the measuring. I do carry a digital camera as well and police evidence scales (rulers) to grab images of particularly interesting tracks or sign.

The track-a-thon was lucky enough to fall about 36 hours after the last snowfall-prime time to get good tracks. Windy conditions the previous day also helped in aging-aiding trackers in determining how recently animals passed by. If roads hadn't been plowed, then it's a much easier task to spot sign. More traveled routes, require an even slower survey speed. My average pace was under 8 mph for the five and half hours in the field. All larger carnivores are recorded-every coyote, bobcat, fisher and wolf track is noted, located on a map and direction of travel indicated.

Coyotes are ever more present and jumping in and out of the truck to check their prints and document them is quite a task. It's when there is something different about a track, the size, the gait pattern, how the snow is scuffed, that makes tracking exciting and I'm quick to exit the warm cab. Deer prints are pretty easy to spot and dismiss-they wander, have a wide straddle and leave a collar of snow around their steps.

Bob Cat

My first 2 miles seemed to take forever-frequent coyotes criss-crossing the road and plenty of deer sign kept the pace slow. Hitting a forest road with all fresh snow and no other vehicle traffic was divine for surveying. Within another mile, a tell-tale large, consistent and widely spaced imprint suggested a wolf. Excitedly jumping out of the truck, my thoughts were confirmed-perfect 4.5” canid track-an Eastern Grey Wolf. Although we are recording all carnivores, wolves are what we most want to keep tabs on, so this was a great find so early in my survey. Following the trail into the woods off road, there was good reason why “he” was here-whitetails had the whole area tore up feeding on acorns-good habitat for both animals. The wolf continued for some distance, seemingly having places to get to south of my position, so I continued checking roads and dead end flowage trails for more sign.

Another hour passed and I hit the trackers mother-load (well, we do get excited about finding different species!)- A wolf, also traveling south, a large bobcat and just a ¼ mile down the same lane, a Fisher, bounding down the road before veering off to bop from tree to tree. It's interesting that the snow covered roads can be a blank slate for miles and all of a sudden, you collect a bunch of tracks all at once.

Slow miles continued for another hour on pristine drifted roads until spotting a day old track. The wolf had followed a logging road and I back tracked it for a mile to the point it entered from a large marsh. Another fresh track had crossed this, so I had plenty of information to record and GPS. Soon, things became crazy-several sets of tracks crossed the road different directions and I needed to investigate further into the woods to figure out where they came from. One group of three seemed to have found something interesting under a brush pile-the tracks had the ground pounded smooth, but there was no other sign. A bit further, a pair of tracks traversed the lane in an opposite direction and left behind a RLU (raised leg urination)-a good indication this was a alpha animal in the pack. Scribbling notes and drawing arrows on maps, all the sign seemed to point at just a few animals that were going back and forth in a small area. In any regard, it was fun and challenging to decipher all clues left on this short section of road.

Wiley E. Coyote

Sometimes it's a matter of feast or famine. As interesting as that flurry was, the next 2 hours passed with only a couple coyote prints, a ton of deer sign and another bobcat trail to keep me busy. My truck slithered down more narrow rutted paths, but for the most part, the snow was undisturbed for the final two hours.

Volunteer trackers are asked to travel 20-30 miles each outing, so with 26.5 recorded and completing a loop in the state and county forest, I ended the survey. From here it was a long drive back to Sandhill where we would tabulate results and do a post survey debriefing, along with just visiting and finding out what the other participants discovered. Most of the TWIN members have many years experience under their belts and had a good handle on what we'd find. On the wolf tally, some individuals and packs were located where expected, while others seem to have disappeared, fueling discussion within the group for possible causes.

Later in the evening Retired wolf biologist Dick Thiel and Ray Leonard, TWIN chairperson, lead a discussion on the recent re-listing of the eastern grey wolf to the endangered species list. The day was a great opportunity to make connections with other TWIN members, practice the craft of tracking and spend a day outdoors in the winter, always a good thing and something I'll look forward to again.

A Tracking Story

 

Although I seldom hit the woods with just one objective, the blessing to living in Wisconsin is you can appreciate several things at once.  One of my warm weather favorites is mountain biking of course, and when I get the chance and am in the right place, a little tracking as a side dish. 

Recently, while visiting a far eastern county forest, I took the opportunity of a late night rain storm to provide only fresh tracks on an early morning ride.  Normally houndsmen would be out running bear, but none were in the area that I observed.  My knobbie tracks were the only ones on the sandy forest road. Some friends had sadly described a lack of tracks and sign in the area over the course of the past year, but I was hopeful.  Deer, turkey and bear tracks were pretty common, with the former scattered everywhere, but what I was interested in were prints from wolves that had been more common a few years ago.

Distressingly, the local game warden had reported five or six poached wolves over the course of the past 12 months in this area and with the newly created wolf hunting season also in force, the pack that once roamed this particular territory had dwindled.  Nevertheless, a chance to return and ride the fatbike and explore a little may turn up something. 

Forest roads and ATV trails have been in the past good places to track in the summer.  The heavy traffic churns the soil up into long stretches of deep sand, fairly easy to spot imprints in the soft surface.  The recent rain firmed the surface and made pedaling easier at the least.  For miles on end it was clear the whitetails had quickly been out and about after the evening storm.  Some sign was mashed in the now drying road, indicating the animals had been out right after the drops had stopped. Others were like perfectly stamped imprints with dry sand grain edges-animals that maybe passed by an hour or two before I.

Deer leave a sure tale scuffed up print that one can spot far down the road-dainty walkers they are not.  But a few miles later there were different tracks-more pressed in, one deep, the other less so.  Common in the area are coyotes, but their tracks are more oval and the center toes a bit larger than the side ones.  These were wolf tracks, an adult and pup, now 4 or 5 months old.  The adult stayed the course and had trotted nearly straight down the road for a 1/2 mile.  The youngster for the most part did as well, but scattered deer bones in the sand, remnants from a last November carcass dump in the county forest, pulled him (or her) aside, curiosity could not be contained.  Sign read that the partial bleached spine had to be pawed and sniffed around, then a quick scat left as a maker before returning alongside the adult, now a ways down the road. 

As they traveled together the pup eventually walked in line with the older wolf avoiding any other distractions along the way.  I stopped and shot a few photographs, excited that there would be a next generation roaming this area for now.  They ultimately turned off the forest lane into a woods trail and from there my tracking would end.

 It may be just a little thing-following two animal’s paw prints, but for me, they told a story, maybe just a very brief paragraph of how they live, but the sentences in their steps  described their life and survival, something I was happy to read.

Of Fear and Loathing of Wolves

"Seca"

“loath·ing ˈlōT͟HiNG/ noun noun: loathing; plural noun: loathings

1.a feeling of intense dislike or disgust; hatred.

First off, I am and have been a deer hunter, bow and gun for my entire life. I spend about every living minute in our outdoors-if not hunting, then mountain biking, cross country skiing,snowshoeing and shooting pictures or building trail. That said, several “conversations” and recent articles all converged in the past week which got me thinking about wolves. The “fear and loathing” of wolves to be specific. Our own Wisconsin Outdoor Fun contributor Patrick Durkin wrote of the recent decline in Midwest deer kill numbers and suggested maybe wolves shouldn't take the blame when looking at surrounding states with few or no wolves. But this is not a “wolves-kill-all-the-deer” piece. Wolves have a much more vested interest than we do as hunters in keeping deer around-it's for their survival and they are very good at self regulating. But we compete for the same resource, so could that be cause for the hate I read?

Kevin Naze of WOF subtly suggested because the wolf hunt closed early, there may be far more animals than DNR estimates suggest. Adding that Wisconsin's 257 kill- 20-30% of the estimated population, surpassed Minnesota (2200 est. wolf population) and Michigan but not noting that Minnesota set a conservative quota of only 220 or 10%. That may be, but the majority were also trapped and trappers tend to be quite skilled in their pursuit and efficient in capturing their prey. It's no easy task to grab a gun, waltz out the door and find a wolf to shoot. Contrary to bar stool chatter, over the past several years pack numbers and populations appear to have stabilized in Wisconsin's limited suitable habitat. Grey wolves in the midwest tend to have smaller territories and fewer pack members when compared to their western brethren. But this is not a “Wisconsin-is-getting-run-over-by-wolves” piece either.

What really got me thinking were two replies I received, one on Facebook (I know..let it go!) and another by a friend via email. Both revolved around the fear of wolves. Wolves are sadly controversial and in my FB reply, I harbored no hope of changing anyones opinion. I think my insightful friends' email hit the nail on the head however- “Logic does not carry the day with emotional issues! It struck me today that we, as hunters, have moved from much of the skill-based tradition of the past and now the only thing that seems to unite us with those hunters of yore is the deep-seated fear and loathing of wolves!”

But why? Europe has a long tradition of fear of wolves and in doing a little research found that in most cases, attacks were attributed to two things, rabies and/or animals being habituated by man. In North America, wolf attacks are exceedingly rare, even though wolves are large predatory animals and can adapt to living in close proximity to humans-especially in Wisconsin. The facebook discussion revolved in part about the fear of stepping into our woods, “afraid to be attacked or eaten alive.” Also the need for carrying a firearm for protection. When looking at wolf attacks by comparison, there have been 59 people killed by bear (Grizzly and black bear) and 11 by cougar since 1990. Annually domestic dogs kill 20-30 people. Hunters (human) kill nearly 100 and injure around 1000 in the US and Canada each year. Only two cases of a human allegedly killed by wolves have been documented in North America in the past 100 years!

I'm reminded of a recent All State commercial where a young girls says “Man-eating sharks live in every ocean, but we still swim. Every second lighting strikes somewhere in the world, but we still play in the rain. Poisonous snakes can be found in 49 of the 50 states, but we still go looking for adventure. Because I think deep down, all the bad things that happen in life, can't stop us from making our lives good.” I believe we shouldn't live in fear of what could happen. Statistically we are in far greater danger driving to and from our recreational playgrounds than from a wolf attack. Wolves generally stay clear of humans and ones I've been lucky enough to observe had other places to be and things to do within a few seconds of making eye contact.

Wolves in Wisconsin have become somewhat adaptable, living in areas that at one time may not have been thought of as suitable habitat, like so many other creatures. We need to keep in mind that while wild animals can adapt quickly, humans do not and it is we who are moving into their homes and territories. It never made a lot of sense to me why we get mad or upset at wild animal confrontations, when they have been here all along. We encroach on them by our “progress.” The animals piece of mother natures pie gets smaller by the day.

Some have called for a return of all out elimination of the wolf (again) because of the perceived danger (deer hunting issues aside). The same was once said of Timber Rattlers and the Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake, which both had a bounty in our state as recently as 1975. Because something could hurt us, we should rid our natural landscape of them? I find it interesting that the wolf seems to be singled out over our much more abundant large carnivore, the Black Bear. I don't see bumper stickers with “No/Bear” symbols slapped on the back of pick ups. Competition? Money? Politics? If we eliminate every risk in the outdoors, real or imagined, we end up with pretty much a vanilla outdoor experience. Safe, but vanilla none the less.

As a hunter and outdoorsman, I try to respect every animal I encounter, observe or harvest. Respect is life-enhancing, fear is life threatening. I'm of the belief that knowing those animals exist, that we share something with them, make life a richer experience. The natural world is good, bad and ugly. Who is man to decide which animal is worthy and which ones are not? The creator seems to have a pretty logical plan set out long before we walked here.

"Seca" 2012, (deceased, victim of "lead poisoning")

Isle Royale Wilderness

I think each of us have a bucket list of some sort-some write it down, some have it floating around in our soul, maybe constantly changing from time to time.  I have one I guess when I think about it, usually involving something outdoors.  Hike the Grand Canyon top to bottom, build a wood kayak or backpack a wilderness.  At least I can check one off, not that I won’t go back- the Isle Royale Wilderness is the most re-visited National Park in the states, and I can see why after just returning.  There is something about it and it’s hard to put a finger on exactly.  It doesn’t have over the top features like Yosemite or Yellowstone, but rather something more subtle maybe that is just what connects with some.

As mentioned, Isle Royale sits offshore of Wisconsin, is just 22 miles from Grand Portage MN (our jumping off point), 55 miles from Copper Harbor MI and actually closest to the mainland of Canada. When viewed from a map, the island looks like the eye in the wolf shaped Lake Superior.  Summer to fall, ferry service shuttles park visitors from Minnesota and Michigan (2-5 hours one way) and around the 105 miles of the island coast.  The National Park has a rich history, dating back to native people using the island for copper mining, maple syrup gathering and of course hunting and fishing.  Scandinavian fishermen were among the isle’s more recent permanent settlers, along with loggers, miners and vacationers.  During the 1920s and ‘30s, the national Park Service began establishing a National Park and with most inhabitants leaving the island. 

Nearly all of Isle Royale was officially designated Wilderness in 1976 meaning there is little human impact here besides hiking trails, two main harbors and a few scattered cabins.  That is the real attraction-at least for me.  To be in a place where for almost 70 years or more, nature has reclaimed the land and left it without interference from man. 

Our group of six included 4 rookie backpackers, (myself included if you don’t count Boy Scouts more than a few years ago) and two experienced and returning Isle Royale trekkers.  Close friend Mark Haferman from Marshfield was the real instigator and organizer, pimping me for years about going on this adventure-I finally gave in…fortunately. We made the long journey along the North Shore and jumped on an early morning ferry for the start of what would be a three day backpacking trip.  Visitors are given an introduction to the park upon arrival by Park Service Rangers, register and set an itinerary.

Feldmann Ridge

Most of our packs came in around 40# with all the gear and food for the days ahead and I found it took the first hour each day to get it adjusted just-right to be comfortable.  Day one we hit the Feldmann Ridge Trail, a 8.5 mile hike to Feldmann Lake and our first camp.  Steep ridge climbs with outstanding vistas of the southern part of the island and Lake Superior were part of this section, along with deep spruce forests.  It seemed the forest type changed constantly, so different from what we’d have back in Wisconsin.  Giant Yellow birch dominated the latter part of this hike-trunks so large two of us couldn’t reach around!  At other times, the path also included my least favorite part for Red Elderberry and Thimbleberry plants formed almost an impassible barrier to wade through.  Luckily, the Thimbleberry were in season and quite good and we’d snag handfuls along the way for a treat.  Tired and a bit sore, the effort is always worth it. After making camp, we had a chance to make the short journey to Rainbow Cove, a black sand beach reaching out from the southern most end of the island.  Nothing needed to be said or done there, just 6 tired bodies taking it all in as the sky began to change color.

The plan for day two was to continue to Siskiwit Bay, nine plus miles to the north following Feldmann Ridge, here a dramatic exposed basalt rises above the surrounding forest.  A now abandoned firetower along the way offered a break and a chance to really get some great views of the landscape.  With the island 50 miles long and 9 wide, it’s not quite possible to see it all, but enough to impress.  Our destination was clearly in view but still seemed many hours distant-not at all encouraging to my feet and back!  From the (literally) high point of the segment, we dove down into beautiful solid paper birch forest and then deeper into black spruce bogs, expecting at any moment to encounter a moose, which are fairly common.  The final push was a 2 mile arrow straight stretch we all dubbed “the jungle.”  It appeared to have once been a road or long forgotten tote trail, but now overgrown with brush and berries.  More than once we’d check the narrow worn footpath beneath the vegetation to be sure we still were on track.  It was taxing to say the least and the blue of the bay peaking through the final 1/4 mile was a welcome sight.

Siskiwit Bay

Staying at Siskiwit Bay was a gem of the trip-the bay was a mile wide and stretched northeast forever into the big lake.  Iron colored rock and beach stones covered the shore where we spent all evening after setting up camp.  One can’t quite top ending a hike absorbing the outdoors in a place like this.  Our only company a few shorebirds, ever present gulls, loons and one red fox, intent on scoring a meal.  We filtered water, talked quietly and discussed the daunting route ahead of us as the fire and sky gradually retired for the day.

Mark had set forth the toughest hike for our final day-there are no shortcuts on Isle Royale-once you’re in, you are committed to finishing the route.  He claimed our packs would be lightest on the most challenging day making it easier-I wasn’t so sure. Not really wanting to say good bye to the water, we began what would be a two hours of climbing-the Island Mine Trail ascending 700 feet above Lake Superior.  Island Mine was a failed copper mine established in 1874, operating just 3 years, before abandoning the “town” and one shaft.  A steam boiler, cables and giant geared wheels can still be found here among the tailing piles and offered an excuse to rest and explore before continuing our climb. 

There were many times we were relived to think we’d reached the summit, only to see another pitch through the forest ahead pointing skyward.  There were tricky rock strewn sections and then a short switchback descent-overall a tough hike.  After a break and a granola and jerky lunch we headed for the final section-the beautiful Greenstone Ridge Trail. Isle Royale is well known for it’s moose and wolf studies and here we did spot tracks of both, but with the wolf population on the brink of extinction  (just 9 left on the entire island) chances of seeing one were slim.  Continuing south, the forest changed again and we ventured through mostly soft maple and birch-somewhat reminiscent of back home, only more primeval with sharp rock outcroppings along the way.  The trail ungulates some, but the steep climbs were behind us and we could make good time.  This trail is well used and we met a few other hikers who were outbound from the Windigo Ranger Station to begin their treks. For me, once I got up to speed (basically keeping the backpack moving forward!) it was easier to keep going than to stop and try to start up again.  This 6.5 mile section flowed well and after swapping out my pricy (uncomfortable) hiking boots for lightweight Keens, even my feet felt good and I felt we’d finish the day unscathed. 

One more night of camping awaited us for our ferry wouldn’t arrive until afternoon of the following day.  As luck would have it, we found a suitable deck with chairs at the tiny store at Windigo, settled in with some beverages and enjoyed looking out over Washington Harbor-even spotting a moose in the shallows across the bay.  As my first “real” backpacking trip, I didn’t know exactly how it would go.  There are so many little nuances to make it successful and you very quickly learn to be efficient.  When seeing day visitors arrive later in flip flops and toting suitcases, I felt like I’d really earned my place here at Isle Royale, that we’d all experienced something they would miss or not fully understand.   That’s not taking anything away from other park visitors, but for me, I think you need to live with it, to take as much in as one can to really connect with a place, to explore, be fascinated and challenged.  I’m reminded of these words on the subject:

“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.” — Henry David Thoreau

At Isle Royale, I felt like I’d really lived, I’d discovered and I’ll return.

Rainbow Cove

"W795" or "Saca" - The Wolf Study

 "Only a mountain has lived long enough to listen objectively to the howl of a wolf." -Aldo Leopold

I think Leopold's quote says something very poignant there, that most of us have not lived long enough to be objective about many things.  For myself, I know I've learned more, appreciate more and am objective about more, the longer I have lived.  One of those  is the wolf.  Recently I had the opportunity to do a couple of ride-alongs during a cooperative wolf trapping effort for monitoring purposes.  It was run by the Ho-Chunk Nation Division of Woildlife, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Wisconsin DNR.  One of the biologists is a friend and knew I have had an regard for these animals and would appreciate this chance to check traps in order to radio collar wolves for this monitoring project.   Since a young age-tracking animals has been something I’ve always enjoyed-following the evidence they leave behind and trying to read the stories by their subtle sign.  Over the past few years, tracking our largest canine has really piqued my interest, and even though I may be mountain biking, skiing or just shooting photographs, a watchful eye is always on the ground, looking for sign.

Though I’ve hunted my whole life, I know little of trapping techniques and was amazed at the skill involved in making the perfect set.   DeWayne Snobl, USDA Wildlife Specialist and Karen Karash, Ho-Chunk Nation wildlife biologist were more than willing to share their knowledge and answer (probably too many) my questions.   To my untrained eye, the sets were all but invisible.  Hopefully to the Canini nose however, it would attract the interest and attention of-in this case, Canis lupus lycaon- the Eastern Grey Wolf.   The knowledge, professionalism and concern for the animal’s health and well being was remarkable.  About a dozen traps were checked, some, with near hits, spawning optimism for the remaining few days to trap during the study.  Sometimes other animals may curiously check out a set, in our case, coyote and deer, and a set needs to be “spruced up”.  DeWayne accused himself of maybe over thinking the art of his sets, but his skills are rewarded with success.  The window of no rain, and cooler temperatures made this trapping opportunity just a few days long unfortunately.  The bear hound training season starts soon, and all trapping efforts will stop at that time to protect dogs.

"The wolf is neither man's competitor nor his enemy. He is a fellow creature with whom the earth must be shared." -L. David Mech

On my “day off” I received a message that a male had been captured, and if interested I could come to the site.  A quick drive deep into the woods and a quiet approach found the biologists and DNR wildlife technician recording data and taking samples-the wolf comfortably lying on a canvas ground cloth.



It was amazing to see, photograph and actually touch this 81pound male, who at the moment was quietly “sleeping” …an animal I have grown to respect and have hoped to have another glimpse of.  The previous day, the highlight was seeing a yearling cross a forest road as we traveled to another site. It’s hard to describe how exciting it was to be there and watch these professionals care for the animal.  The welfare of the wolf was of utmost concern, and through hushed voices, "W795" or "Saca", his Ho-Chunk name, was carefully checked for physical condition, with blood samples collected, body measurements recorded and temperature, pulse and respiration constantly monitored.  The biologist noted and photographed an old rear knee injury the wolf had and treated a sore associated with the knee injury.   Cool water bottles between his legs regulated his temperature and some minor wounds treated.  The radio tracking collar was tested and a careful eye was kept on a watch, knowing how much time they had to finish their work.

Care was taken to clear and remove the “work site” and I was surprised to be asked to keep an eye on the male and if he should start to come to, to gently hold him down- no, they weren’t kidding.  “No worries-he’ll be really out of it,” and I’d be safe. “The shoulders are a good place to hold him.” As exhilarating as that would have been, he stayed under until a wake up (antagonist) drug Yohimbine was administered.  Before injecting the drug, Karen left a small offering of tobacco to thank the Creator for this opportunity to handle the sukjak or wolf and to watch over him, a practice encouraged by a traditional Ho-Chunk member.

We all backed away, but kept a careful eye on him for signs of movement, signaling his awakening.  Shortly, maybe 5 minutes later, he woke, probably wondering why his world was spinning.  Sporting his shiny new collar, and gradually stumbling a bit, resting, trying again, he regained his motor skills and was able to move off to the brush and rendezvous with the pack at some point.




What an amazing experience. To be in the presence of this magnificent animal-one in which I feel has an important place in our outdoor world. Whenever I see their evidence and know they are here, I feel a bit more alive, that I am a part of something bigger than myself and that's worth witnessing as often as possible.

"We reached the old wolf in time to watch the fierce green fire dying in her eyes. . . .There was something new to me in those eyes--- something known only to her and the mountains. I was young then, and full of trigger-itch. I thought that because fewer wolves meant more deer that no wolves would mean hunter's paradise, but after seeing the green fire die, I sensed that neither the wolf nor the mountain agreed with such a view." -Aldo Leopold

Update:  "Seca" or wolf 795 went "off-air" during the summer of 2013.  Another wolf had moved into his pack territory and for a while, both were radio tracked from the air.  A short time later Seca was unable to be located.  Wolf researchers sadly believe he was the victim of "lead poisoning" (shot).
 

The Track

"We reached the old wolf in time to watch the fierce green fire dying in her eyes. . . .There was something new to me in those eyes--- something known only to her and the mountains. I was young then, and full of trigger-itch. I thought that because fewer wolves more deer that no wolves would mean hunter's paradise, but after seeing the green fire dire, I sensed that neither the wolf nor the mountain agreed with such a view." -Aldo Leopold 

"Two Toes" Right Front Paw

 "How lonely is the night without the howl of a wolf." -Unknown 


I live to be outdoors.  I can't imagine being further than a few footsteps out my door and stepping into the woods.  I live in the heart of West Central Wisconsin, between the soaring coulees  of the driftless zone and the deep forests of the north.  There has always been a part of me that knows the northwoods is home, maybe from years as a kid spending time with my grandfather there hunting and fishing.  There is another part that knows the steep ridges and valleys of the south west, and when I have a chance to climb those hills, hunt or ski or bike them, I take it.  But I live in the middle and am fortunate to to have an outdoor world when I open the door, where I can clip into my pedals, snap a binding closed, chamber a twenty gauge shell or press a shutter.  Sometimes more than one of those things come together on the same day.

A mile down the road is the 133,000 acre Clark County Forest, and further south are the Jackson County and Black River State Forests.  They all provide habitat for wildthings and those of us who enjoy them.  Being fortunate to live so close, I take advantage of it all.  Despite a less than usual winter, my skis still have found the trail, and fat tires and snowshoes have packed snow.  Since I'm in no great hurry, and that seems to be the case the older I get, I try to take in more.  To notice more.  


I hadn't skied two or three minutes from the trailhead when I cut across two sets of prints-one I recognized immediately.  "Two Toes."  I had named him a few weeks ago while skating down a trail at Levis Mound.  The wolf had entered the trail from the east, and loped along marking trees as it meandered along for a mile or so on the groomed trail.  Something about the track looked distorted as I skied along.  Finally I stopped and took a closer look-yep, the two middle pads a front paw were missing.  "Two Toes" had a name. A smaller set of tracks joined him, a female I'll assume and together they cut across several ski trails heading west.  The new prints, Two Toes and his partner, seemed bolder, having entered the trail just a few hundred yards from the ski chalet.  Again, they seemed content to follow the packed snow, venturing off from time to time to mark or take scent of something unknown to me.  My ski workout now turned into more tracking, and I found that to be just as valuable a use of my time. 

Tracks on West Levis

 In the low light of the afternoon, it was easy to follow the line of tracks ahead-they created a deep shadows pressed into the snow.  Finally, they left the trail and ascended Levis Mound only to return a few clicks down the trail-another chance to follow them.  For a time, I wondered if they were just ahead and might offer me a glimpse-that would have been exciting, for I've only seen one in the wild, last year while grooming these very trails.  They had other ideas and again went off track and headed west.  The skis would take me out and around a few more trails and I eventually did cut the pair's tracks again, along with another lone male who lives in the area.  They headed toward a deer carcass I'd found, but just short of reaching it, something stopped them and they retreated into deeper woods.

Two Toes and Partner- Pine Run

 For some around here, the social carrying capacity of wolves is zero.  There are no shortage of "No Wolves" stickers on the tailgates of pick-ups  parked at the supper club and bar down the road from my home.  There is distain because the wolf is seen as a competitor by some, frustration because wolves will not tolerate other canines and will protect their territories.  I view it as they have a place in our outdoors and as a hunter I am nothing more than a predator as they are, except their life depends on hunting.  Maybe they deserve the harvest more than I?  Like Leopold, I doubt a land with fewer wolves would be a paradise, but rather something less.  I do  know that when I see those tracks, when I know they, and other wild creatures are there, that I am in their domain, it makes my world richer.

Tracks in Tracks

"Their paw prints lead you along trails of discovery and insight.  To look in their eyes forever imprints your heart.  To hear their howl forever marks your soul.  To connect with them, forever bonds your spirits" -Unknown