Howard and The Grapes |
In a chapter of the Adventures of Tom Sawyer, Tom convinces several friends he meets during the day that whitewashing a fence is great pleasure. With a bit of bargaining, Tom
negotiates and collects a small stash of treasure from each boy who passes by
in exchange for the privilege of working on the fence. Tom reflects that all it takes to make
someone want something is to make it hard to get. That timeless story floated around my head as the sweat
dripped off my brow harvesting grapes the other day. It was very warm for mid September as I joined a small group
of fans of the Sandstone Ridge Winery & Vineyards, harvesting some of the
first grapes of the season.
The call had
gone out to friends and family of the vineyard that harvest time was here and
if interested, we could reserve our spot on the picking team for the day. Harvesting will continue into early
October, but like Tom Sawyers friends, I wasn’t going to let this first
opportunity slip by! Although I make my own wild berry wines, this was a chance
to see behind the scenes production on a professional level.
I am an
enthusiast of Standstone Ridge wines and the beautiful winery and vineyard
owners Bob and Connie Dubiel have created
high on a ridgetop in West Central Wisconsin near Osseo. The Dubiels, along with family
and friends have crafted an enterprise in these hills-finding just the right
climate and soil to produce grapes and award winning wines with unique and rich flavors. Although the winery is only in it’s
second year, this 40 acre
vineyard, along with a second smaller one in a valley near Pleasantville, have been painstakingly developed for
some time with plenty of sweat equity and pride.
Our early morning group of volunteers gathered at the
beautiful wood and stone winery for coffee and rolls and introductions. There
was enthusiasm and a bit of
anxiousness to get started, even though most of us had no idea what lie ahead
in the countless rows of grape vines waiting outside.
Bob gathered us in the center of the vineyard and gave instructions on
the proper use of harvesting tools,
picking techniques, which berries to toss and which to keep. We’d start on several rows of plump
white Brianna grape as the morning sun quickly started warming the ridge
top. Even with our late
spring, deluge of rain early and now near drought conditions, Bob reported and
we witnessed how productive this crop was-the bunches of grapes very large and
delicious. He gave us one rule-eat
as many of the grapes as we’d like, proving the myth that wine grapes are
terrible eating so very wrong.
White plastic crates were spread out between the rows and
soon filling as we started getting the hang of this harvesting thing. Pickers would pair up on either side of
the vines and spread out the heavy foliage to find and clip off clusters-some
camouflaged well while others wound around the supporting trellis. After a while, a rhythm almost develops
while picking, meditative, as one cuts and grasps several bunches in the hand
before moving on. Quiet
conversations between harvesters
worked slowly down each row until finished, the white bins now full and ready
for pick up. These grapes would be
sold to another winery and I joked to Connie that we’d work harder if we thought this fruit
would be poured into a glass next summer from the Sandstone Ridge cellar!
Bob moved us
to a different grape, a red Sabrevios which was much easier to see and
pick. The deep purple of the
bunches stood out in stark contrast to the green leaves. Grapes can be trained to grow either
high or low on the trellis, so for myself, the high bunches were within easy
reach. The Sabrevios were more
fragile and having purple stained hands and clothes become quite
fashionable. Sometimes these reds
had a dirty knack of tangling themselves around the wire or send tendrils to
anchor down the bunches, making it wholly a puzzle to free them into my crate. A couple more family members arrived
and within a few hours, we’d finished our assigned rows and thankful for the
break as the day really warmed up under the cloudless sky.
The Dubiels provided a wonderful lunch and even more
welcome, shade under a beautiful
pavilion in the center of the vineyard.
The shared labor brought down any walls and soon the shelter was filled
with chatty friendly people just
enjoying the breeze and scenery.
Six wines were brought out to enjoy with our meal and perhaps help encourage
anyone who wanted to do a little grape stomping. Several did and the red and white grapes were soon a slurry
of “must” (which Bob would donate to the forest critters and not use for wine). It’s more ceremonial than anything, but
produced giggles and red stained feet and well worth it for entertainment
value. Good friend Howard and I
even convinced his wife Bobbie to roll up her pants to give it a go. (I think she really wanted to all
along!).
The family and hired hands returned to harvesting, with Bob
giving us the option of joining back in, but suggested that maybe we’d rather
relax, sample another glass and take in the view. Yeah, that sounded good to me. On another harvest day, I’ll be convinced like
Tom Sawyers buddies, that it is a great privilege and honor to be out among the
vines, filling crates and staining hands.
Honestly, I know most of us here will be back-the Dubiels are just great
people, and this a beautiful
place. But for the rest of the
day, I think I’ll just kick back, relax, enjoy the panorama in front of me and
the fruits of their labor.